Troubridge Summit to Saltery Bay:

 And finally in the home stretch.  I'll bet your dogs are barking now......

It's not all downhill from the top, but pretty close to it.

The trail head heading south and sharply downhill to Rainy Day Lake comes off right behind the Cadillac of outhouses,  just a few short steps from the small summit hut.  

Down is the operative word here: that first downhill grade is a long one.  The first time I climbed up from Rainy Day Hut I summited in early afternoon, made a quick call home to tell my wife that I was indeed still alive, so she need not call the insurance company just yet, and then just turned around and headed back to my truck.  After a good twenty minutes of constantly descent I ran into a couple of upward bound hikers, fully loaded with packs and looking like bad horses, rode hard and put-away wet.  I felt like the boys needed a little support, so I told them that they were indeed on the last hill.

I didn't have heart to tell them that the last hill was really quite long.

If the hiker is feeling a like a fresh fruit snack filled with antioxidants and it's August, you can find the trail lined with blue-berry bushes. The bushes are usually laden with fruit since, by this time, the SCT is a low flow system.  A lot of people call it a hike at Lang Bay when, really, some of the best of the trail is yet to come. Anyway, the blueberries.  They are tasty and free...but be prepared to share with the bears. 

The bears do like their berries.

Once again, the Summit Hut, a few short meters from the  south-bound trail head.

The trail head with signage

Glimpsed through the trees from the summit: Rainy Day Lake.  That little point sticking out is the promontory where the Rainy Day Lake hut sits. 

They are really, really good but I have no idea how to get them off the mountain in bulk so my wife can enjoy the bounty. So far, besides all the blueberries I have eaten, nothing has made it home besides blue mush.

From high on the mountain, across Jervis Inlet to the lower Sunshine Coast.

Hardy Island and Blind Bay beyond.  

Walking through the old forest on the shoulder of Troubridge, one is hard pressed not to think of Treebeard, Ents and Fanghorn Forest from Tolkien.  The trees are draped in moss, the roots fan out around the trunks like like the eight tentacles of  wooden octopuses (or "octopusi"?) and a there remains a few old grandfathers that tower above the rest, making the hiker dizzy as they peer up at the distant canopy.

Looking to the far south into what I knew in my youth as the Georgia Straits. Somewhere in that haze is Nanaimo on the Island.

To the southeast, the ferry rounds the eastern shores of Hardy Island and then sails south to Earl's Cove.

The SCT tracks through the old forest, often skirting the edge of the clear cuts lower on the mountain.  The hiker will catch glimpses of Jervis Inlet and the distant mountains on the south Sunshine Coast ("the peninsula" by locals) and the intrepid hiker can find the odd offshoot trail that leads to a vista.  

Eventually the SCT leaves the old forest and drops down through a young forest growing over an old cut, then just pops out on the very end of a logging road, the last of the Rainy Day Lake Road.  I actually drove up that road not too long ago to enjoy Dawn on Troubridge: there is a reason it is called the golden hours.

This is where the trusty iPhone comes in handy: a Panorama from the RDL road terminus.

On a sunny summer day. I had started hiking in the dark, but it took a while to get here from RDL hut.

I drove to the lookout, using my trusty 4x4 to grind my way up the rapidly deteriorating road.  I arrived just moments before sunrise.

And there it is: the rays of the rising sun.  I once knew a Cree elder who's name translated to "Rays of the Rising Sun": his residential school name was Albert.  The religious zealots that ran those schools had no sense of style or decency.

Gazing from my window on the west and framed by the humming high voltage wires is Mount Arrowsmith on Vancouver Island

You can just spot the heavy tidal bore at the head of the inlet fed by Skookuchuck Narrows.

As the hiker enjoys the view, the world continues rolling on. The lifeline to the Northern Sunshine Coast is the dependable BC Ferries.  When I first moved to Powell River the ferry was an ancient scow who had seen decades of hard use.  We now have relatively fast modern ferry that plies the route between Earl's Cove and Saltery Bay. 

The ferry passage between the Cove and the Bay is one of the most picturesque runs of the BC Ferry system.  If one knows where to look, the incoming traveler will see the hanging Friel Falls, plunging hundreds of  feet from Friel Lake above to the ocean below.  I'm told that our beloved transient Orca frequent Jervis Inlet from time to time, leaving  the bobbing inedible heads of unfortunate pinniped victims to shock the random tourist.

Orca have to eat too.

I have always wanted to take my wife on a romantic cruise.  Being thrifty, I kind of think that an good substitute might be to walk onto the ferry with our bicycles in tow at noon time, enjoy the ferry ride to Earl's Cove and then pedal out to Skookumchuck Narrows to watch the tidal bore over an evening picnic.  We would then catch the night ferry back to Saltery Bay, enjoying the phosphorescence bubbling off the wake of the ferry.

Then I remind myself that my wife get's sea-sick.

This is the hogback ridge the SCT climbs up out of Rainy Day Lake. It wends it's way up over a combination of trails and retired logging roads, crossing the Rainy Day Lake Road twice before reaching the lookout and the final long push to the summit.

The lower trail before the real climb begins.

The Southbound Troubridge SCT finally comes to a crossroads in the shallow pass above Rainy Day Lake. Here the hiker can make a choice: keep on heading south to Fairview, or head North, downhill to Rainy Day Lake itself.  The lake is deep and cool. It has a great swimming dock and the hut itself is perched atop a stone outcrop that juts out into the lake.  

Coming from Troubridge, traversing the ridge directly East of RDL, at the crossroads.

Heading hard downhill through the bottom of the pass to the hut on the Lake.

Choose wisely: cold, clean water and respite at the lake or another 4 kilometers to enjoy a seaside sleep.

In the spring the new leaves are a brilliant green and, as always, life seems a bit sweeter.

Rainy Day Lake (it's a strange name for a lake in a region that has three seasons: rain season, dry season and smoke season) is beautiful in the early morning as the sun just crests the south hill and Troubridge is reflected in the glass calm water. The hut itself is hidden in a grove of trees that covers the top of a lone rock hillock that protrudes out into the lake like a castle-mound of old Wales.  

The hut is one of the open concept fair-weather shelters. Thank goodness that RDL rarely sees snow for more than the odd day over a cold snap in winter.  For the most part the SCT is a year-round hiking destination at the lower elevations and a snowshoeing destination higher.

The hut on the hill including the winding trail up from the SCT.  There is a camping area at the base of the rock as well, replete with a picnic table and fire pit.

Rainy Day Lake from both ends.  The top three were shot just after sunrise in July, while the bottom shot was taken from the western edge of RDL late that afternoon. 

More views of Rainy Day Lake, including the ramshackle dock at the west end and the outflow water-course leaving the west edge of the lake.  The swimming dock is right at the base of the castle-mount.

So, here at Rainy Day Lake the hiker must make their choice: retrace your steps back up the trail to the pass that leads down to Fairview or head west to find the trail that leads directly to Saltery Bay.  Both are equally enjoyable, but I can guarantee that once you reach Fairview Hut you will want to dawdle for a while to enjoy the beautiful bay.  You may just overnight there and miss your ferry back to the rat-race in the big city.  The Saltery Bay direct option is substantially shorter since it forms the hypotenuse of a right angle triangle where the 90 degree corner  originates at Fairview hut.

Missing the winding waterfront trail leading from Fairview to Saltery Bay is a mistake in my opinion.  Saltery Direct is a very nice trail, but the Fairview trail is one of the highlights of the entire SCT.  

On the other hand, the Rainy Day Loop is a fantastic, relaxed 3-day, 2 night hike. Walk off the ferry (leaving your car at Earl's Cove), stroll on down to the trail head just east of the ferry terminal and off you go.  A short day hike to Fairview Bay with a nice ocean swim followed by a quiet sea-side night. Sleep in and enjoy coffee the following morning before a very short 4 or 5 km up to RDL. Have another very nice swim in a deep and cool fresh water lake and then a leisurely evening, an early-to-bed night and you will be ready for a pastoral 9 km stroll back to Saltery Bay to catch your homebound ferry.

I'll cover both routes.

The trail to Fairview has the intrepid hiker retracing their steps from the hut and back up the shallow valley to the pass and down the relatively steep slope down to Fairview Main, the logging road winding in from Saltery Bay.  It pays to know the various logging roads that give easy access to trailheads, but keep in mind that these are active logging roads and those big logging trucks have right of way.  If you are cruising the back country, especially on weekdays, keep your head up and carry a radio monitor tuned to the frequency of that Main.

Back up the steep hill, sometimes muddy with run-off

To the well marked cross-trails

Over the pass by winding trail

And down the winding, sometimes steep trail to Fairview Main.

Mr. Toad of Toad Hall humbly requests that you step off of his log. Found by my trusty snake-spotter while she scanned for the very dangerous wild Garter Snake.

Across Fairview Main, the trail continues down a much more gentle grade and eventually morphs into an old logging road, somewhat rutted by the often heavy spring run-off.  If it is spring and pouring rain, be assured that your feet will be cold and soggy by the time you get to the hut.  Watch closely for the "WATER" sign on the downhill side of the trail. The hike into the dependable water source is relatively long and, if it early in the season you MIGHT find a good water flow at the hut itself.  The "hut" stream dries up quite early in the summer, so don't count on that water.

The lower trail into Fairview is clearly the remains of an old logging trail.  Easy hiking but sometimes taken over by the spring run-off. The water source is well marked by a large sign. It's a bit of a hike, but follow the trail to the very end.

It's hard not to love Fairview Hut.  The bay itself has the feeling of a isolated tropical lagoon and, in the heat of the summer, I'm sure the water at high tide is quite warm, heated as it advances over the rocks of the shallow bay. In the spring there is a series of waterfalls tumbling down the steep hillside behind the hut which adds to the feeling of tropical island getaway.

Keep in mind that Fairview hut is one of the most popular huts for the residents of the Northern Sunshine Coast.  On a nice weekend afternoon, the hiker should be prepared to share this tranquil spot with at least one family on a "exhaust the kids" hike and beach outing. Perhaps some of the families are hoping to downsize their herd on the precipitous cliffside trail sections between the hut and Saltery Bay.

Fairview Bay: shallow and sheltered and ready for swimming. Carry beach shoes though: rocks, barnacles and sea shells will make your feet wish you had.

The hillside behind the Fairview Hut is awash with little waterfalls in the spring and early summer.  Delightful and photogenic, but not trustworthy as a water source.

The hiker heads west from Fairview Hut, winding through the mixed forest and across some pretty gnarly bluffs (where my hiking partner routinely chants "don't look down" as she tiptoes across the narrow trail), then out to Ahlstrom Point before climbing a long hill up to the power line road.

Once you are at the Power Line Road, the hiker can commence to mourn the end; you are getting to within spitting distance of the trail terminus.

You still have the pleasure of the Fish Farm bluffs, Pirates Cove and the always enjoyable "Escalator".  The Escalator is somebody's idea of a good joke: a series of switch backs climbing up a steep hillside to act as the last real barrier.  I have actually run into fitness buffs who use the Escalator as a substitution for stair climbing.  I doubt they will ever be able to market that little joy as a form of "Crossfit".

Here you are: a short stroll along the edge of Saltery Bayshore and you are at the trail end kiosk and a stone's throw from the ferry.

A mixed forest of tall deciduous trees and maturing evergreens. Glorious in the early summer light.

Through the dark forest, a golden spotlight of sun catches a brilliant green tree 

It's really not that narrow. You don't really want to dance a waltz while crossing it, but have no fear.  The guys that carted in the concrete and built this safe catwalk really need to be applauded.

At Ahlstrom Point looking down Jervis Inlet.

The power lines.  Playing with "leading lines"

Coming down a windswept ridgeline after leaving the power lines road.

Along the bluffs between the Fish Farm and Pirates Cove.

And there are a couple of mountains to see along the way. Just one or two.

I'll skip throwing in pictures of the Escalator. I have many of those, but none of them capture the adventure that is that little joy of trail. Watch your step and keep breathing.

The trail out to Saltery Bay is very nice, but I implore the hiker to take the time to wander out to Saltery Point to have a little snack while watching the world go by (well, maybe only a few boats, the ferry and a couple of seagulls).

Views from Saltery Point on New Years Day.

Found in just the right light along the edge of the trail.

Now we need to retrace our steps and follow Saltery Bay Direct from Rainy Day Lake.  

The first time I hiked this I certainly earned the migraine headache I had as I drove home.  I managed to drive half-way to the trail-head before I realized that I had left all my water bottles and bladders at home.  Being a particularly stubborn man, I decided to just hike the trail without the encumbrance of  useless water. It was only sixteen kilometers round trip and the day was only sort of sunny.  

Oblivious.

For the through hiker, I will always suggest the Fairview route, but this trail has lots going for it.  For the most part it is a very easy walk, following tame old logging roads for the great majority of its length. Only near the top of the trail, around Friel Falls Vista, is the hiker going to find anything approaching steep or challenging.  

Find the trail head directly west of Rainy Day Lake Hut, following the narrow access road to near the west end of RDL and look for the signs pointing up into the deep, dark woods.

It's not hard to find the trail head: head west young hiker.

Various views found along the way. If you know where to look, you can indeed find Friel Falls.

The majority of the trail is pastoral.  My pet peeve here? The owls kept on hooting at me but I could not see one of them.. I think maybe they are in cahoots with the ravens: tempting me to catch them with a camera but always ducking away.

I guess I could finish this off with the obligatory picture of the trail end kiosk...but if you can't find the kiosk, I really can't help you. I also have never taken a picture of that structure.  I've walked by it a dozen times or more but I just have never pulled out the camera and caught the image.  Human built structures just don't catch my interest I guess.

I'll probably update and add photos to this blog over the years as I collect pictures.  This was NOT meant as a guide: Mr. Waltz has published the definitive guide already. This blog is just a tourist temptation: let them see what they are missing and come enjoy it for themselves.

The quotes at the end of each segment are all well known Welsh sayings.  Welsh is an ancient and lyrical language best suited for poetry and heroic ballads.  What other language changes the entire structure of random words just so they sound better when spoken?  Tolkien selected Welsh as his model for the language of his Middle Earth Elves (and the men of Numenor) simply because of it's poetic beauty.  I will probably being trying to learn my ancestral speech for the rest of my life.  Perhaps it will be better than my English, but that's no great stretch.

Along the shores of the Salish Sea, the rain cleans the sky and on those few brilliant sunny days, the glory shines down upon us.

Hen y teimlir ergyndion a gaed yn ifanc : The old feels the blows suffered when young.  You bet your butt you're going to feel this hike for a while.